After a quiet few months it was the new year and time to get out and about again. The first event of the year was a Scottish Islands archaeology symposium on the Isle of North Uist and among the fieldtrips were one to the beach at Baleshare and another to look at Barpa Langass chambered cairn.
Barpa Langass is the best preserved chambered cairn in the Western Isles and I’ve written about it in a previous post.
It isn’t safe to go inside it nowadays but luckily I had been inside it many years ago. The only thing I would add to the previous post is that after listening to a talk by a local structural engineer about fractures in the capstones and shifting and movement of some of the large orthostats, including the capstones, I will definitely not be going inside again! Not unless money can be found some time in the future to consolidate the structure and make it safe.
BALESHARE (Baile Sear)
Baleshare is a long, low-lying island joined to the rest of North Uist by a causeway.
Taken from the cafe at Claddach Kirkibost, looking across to the northern tip of Baleshare (on the left) and to the southern tip of Kirkibost Island (on the right)
Running down the west side of Baleshare is one continuous 4 mile long sandy beach and at various places along this beach, remains from the Iron-Age have been revealed in the sandy cliffs. Severe erosion from tides and storms is constantly revealing more shell middens and sometimes the walls of wheelhouses, a form of Iron-Age roundhouse characterized by inner radial walls resembling the spokes of a wheel.
Above L – wheelhouse walls sticking out of the sand dunes and R – an excavated wheelhouse about 6 miles away on Grimsay
At the same time as new archaeology is being revealed, existing remains are often being lost to the sea.
The shell middens are depicted by an obvious strata of shells in the cliff face and contain the discarded shells of shellfish as well as animal and fish bones, pottery sherds and other material that had been discarded and put on the midden.
Pieces of pottery and tools made from bone, flint and stone can often be found in the sandy cliff.
Although this is a coastal environment nowadays, these are settlements that would originally have been some distance from the sea. Erosion has been so dramatic, over not only centuries, but millennia, that the coast here once stretched 14km out to sea and a land bridge connected North Uist to the Monach Isles, a chain of low lying sandy islands visible 9 miles to the west.
The whole of the island is now called Baile Sear, which means eastern township and Baile Siar, the western township has long since disappeared under sand and tides.
The photos above are of the shell middens and stone remains at Ceardach Ruadh (translates as the red smiddy) which is to the north of the parking area at the beach. Another site to the south, Sloc Sabhaid, was revealed after a severe hurricane in 2005 and rescue excavations found the remains of Iron-Age roundhouses there to0.
On the east side of Baleshare, a walk from the end of the road takes you to a Neolithic cairn and nearby are some abandoned croft houses.
Above & below – Baleshare is surrounded by shallow tidal waters